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DIY How to clear tok tok sound
Started by
mitsu4g18
, Dec 19 2005 02:54 PM, 28 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 19 December 2005 - 02:54 PM
What I’m going to review is the permanent solving DIY method.
The tok tok nuisance which is common to waja owner. 90% of the tok
tok problem originate from the left absorber mounting chassis
bracket,10% from the double frame.The most tricky one is the absorber,you
can only test drive & and going over bumps..
A minute clearance even 0.05mm between the absorber mounting and chassis
bracket could produce a very irritating sound such as tok tok or kuk kuk
The absorber mounting and mounting bracket should completely flushed,
obviously this is the few secrets the japs kept to themselves.
Below are the steps to be taken prior confirming either it’s a frame or
bracket problem.
1.Step1, Press & lift a couple of time front chassis refer pic step1, if
no kruk kruk sound go to step2 if got sound go to step7.
2.Step2 jack your car and lift the chassis until bottom base of tire
hanging 1” inches high from ground and loosen the 3 absorber mounting nut
screws (do not remove the nuts screws from the mounting bolt)so that you
can have access between the absorber & mounting bracket
(WARNING do not at any time put your fingers between this area.
3.Step3 for temporary measures or lazy to do the next step just slide in
a bicycle tube in 3 places ref pic.
4.Step4 for permanent and reusable method is by inserting a fiber or hard
thin plastic (0.30mm) this one which I got from a plastic file holder
blue colour. Tighten the 3 nuts DONE
5.The absorber mounting dimension is a replica of wira absorber mounting
but only has 2 stud screws instead. The measurement of the outer ring of
the fiber spacer DIY is aprox 13.4cm inner 10.0cm.
6.Step6 fully tighten 3 nuts remove jack and test drive..
7.Step7 involving dismantling the mudguard exposing the chassis double
framing, look thru the pic and you will know where to bang hehehe… make
sure during banging do step1 to make sure no more kruk kruk sound
May the tok tok “R.I.P”
p/s
Any injuries arise from doing it is not my responsibility.. sorry
http://www.autoworld...ed.asp?AID=4718
The tok tok nuisance which is common to waja owner. 90% of the tok
tok problem originate from the left absorber mounting chassis
bracket,10% from the double frame.The most tricky one is the absorber,you
can only test drive & and going over bumps..
A minute clearance even 0.05mm between the absorber mounting and chassis
bracket could produce a very irritating sound such as tok tok or kuk kuk
The absorber mounting and mounting bracket should completely flushed,
obviously this is the few secrets the japs kept to themselves.
Below are the steps to be taken prior confirming either it’s a frame or
bracket problem.
1.Step1, Press & lift a couple of time front chassis refer pic step1, if
no kruk kruk sound go to step2 if got sound go to step7.
2.Step2 jack your car and lift the chassis until bottom base of tire
hanging 1” inches high from ground and loosen the 3 absorber mounting nut
screws (do not remove the nuts screws from the mounting bolt)so that you
can have access between the absorber & mounting bracket
(WARNING do not at any time put your fingers between this area.
3.Step3 for temporary measures or lazy to do the next step just slide in
a bicycle tube in 3 places ref pic.
4.Step4 for permanent and reusable method is by inserting a fiber or hard
thin plastic (0.30mm) this one which I got from a plastic file holder
blue colour. Tighten the 3 nuts DONE
5.The absorber mounting dimension is a replica of wira absorber mounting
but only has 2 stud screws instead. The measurement of the outer ring of
the fiber spacer DIY is aprox 13.4cm inner 10.0cm.
6.Step6 fully tighten 3 nuts remove jack and test drive..
7.Step7 involving dismantling the mudguard exposing the chassis double
framing, look thru the pic and you will know where to bang hehehe… make
sure during banging do step1 to make sure no more kruk kruk sound
May the tok tok “R.I.P”
p/s
Any injuries arise from doing it is not my responsibility.. sorry
http://www.autoworld...ed.asp?AID=4718
#3
Posted 19 December 2005 - 11:10 PM
Mitsu ;
I,m new here . My waja 2004 is having this exact problem .
Thanks for your advise. Will try it out this weekend.
Weekday , kena work until cow comes home.
I,m new here . My waja 2004 is having this exact problem .
Thanks for your advise. Will try it out this weekend.
Weekday , kena work until cow comes home.
#4
Posted 20 December 2005 - 09:41 AM
mitsu very hard to understand all the mech. terms. lucky u got pics.
hehehe thx
hehehe thx
#6
Posted 20 December 2005 - 11:52 AM
First you got to remove the black plastic mudguard cover, I should name
the metal mudguard as fender in the 1st place.. there are 6 plastic & 1
metal screws securing the black plastic mudguard to the car chassis.. 4
plastic screws infront, 2 plastic screws at the top under the metal
fender & 1 metal screw near the black mudguard flipper..
5 bolts for the metal fender, 3 small bolts at the top, 1 behind front
door hinge,(got to open door to access it) 1 under the chassis just after
the black mud flipper, 2 for the black flipper(size 10mm), and 1 at the
front between the front fender & the side metal fender which hold them
together..
tips..
all 5 metal bolts for the metal fender are identical..
the metal mudguard as fender in the 1st place.. there are 6 plastic & 1
metal screws securing the black plastic mudguard to the car chassis.. 4
plastic screws infront, 2 plastic screws at the top under the metal
fender & 1 metal screw near the black mudguard flipper..
5 bolts for the metal fender, 3 small bolts at the top, 1 behind front
door hinge,(got to open door to access it) 1 under the chassis just after
the black mud flipper, 2 for the black flipper(size 10mm), and 1 at the
front between the front fender & the side metal fender which hold them
together..
tips..
all 5 metal bolts for the metal fender are identical..
#7
Posted 20 December 2005 - 02:33 PM
Hi there,
I have a similar problem with the sound. Just brought my car to EON SC,
they said the problem is same like what you mentioned in Step 7. Told me
that they will dismantle the mudguard and add foam lining but didn't
mention about any knocking. Anyway I plan to get it done on the 5000km
service. Already done 2000km in 2 1/2 weeks! Will update you guys on the
progress...
Dog
I have a similar problem with the sound. Just brought my car to EON SC,
they said the problem is same like what you mentioned in Step 7. Told me
that they will dismantle the mudguard and add foam lining but didn't
mention about any knocking. Anyway I plan to get it done on the 5000km
service. Already done 2000km in 2 1/2 weeks! Will update you guys on the
progress...
Dog
#8
Posted 24 December 2005 - 10:54 PM
sorry guys .. the new measurement of the spacer's diameter
Outer ring 13.3cm
Inner ring 10.6cm
All this years we tot that there is something lose behind the dashborad
especially when going over bumps, actually.. it's the absorber mounting,
try the easy lazy step 3.. you will be surprised.. then you can only hear
the "tick" of the plastic door and the hissing absorbers..happy DIY..
Outer ring 13.3cm
Inner ring 10.6cm
All this years we tot that there is something lose behind the dashborad
especially when going over bumps, actually.. it's the absorber mounting,
try the easy lazy step 3.. you will be surprised.. then you can only hear
the "tick" of the plastic door and the hissing absorbers..happy DIY..
#9
Posted 26 December 2005 - 07:51 PM
Hi mitsu4g18,do i need to redo alignment again after this?? will it cause
the alignment out??
the alignment out??
#10
Posted 27 December 2005 - 10:48 AM
DoRunRun,
No realignment needed, the nuts/bolts are fixed setup, just loosen it..
not like fixing cross stabilizer bar..
No realignment needed, the nuts/bolts are fixed setup, just loosen it..
not like fixing cross stabilizer bar..