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Infinitum Battery Desulfator Review


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#21
vr2turbo

Posted 29 May 2014 - 08:22 AM

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QUOTE (cendana287 @ May 28 2014, 10:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yeah, you do have a very valid point about this being a sort of chicken and egg story. It's true about the aircond system. I've heard of people recommending servicing once a year. Some insist at 6 months. But even without servicing, a good aircond system would still tend to last for a few years before any significant part needs to be replaced. Just needs topping up the refrigerant, especially when we often get stuck in traffic congestion and the temperature would rise. Parts would fail eventually, servicing or not. But having said that, there are aspects which we could do something about ourselves (DIY), like checking on the condition of the cabin and pollen filters. Once a year should be often enough. When clogged with leaves, dust and dirt, these filters would force the blower's fan to work harder. If one has to put the blower at the highest point, it could be because of a clogged filter. Or when the aircond air smells musty (the pollen filter/s is probably damp and may even contain harmful bacteria).

Coming back to the alternator - maybe I should just leave well enough alone. For the time being, I'll just check the voltage of the battery: if it's at 13.5V-14.9V with the engine running, that means the alternator is doing its job (not too little nor too much charge, which means the voltage regulator is still okay). Your friend's RM700 alternator - sounds like a 120 Ampere here(?) I've also been thinking about the replacement, when the time does come. I don't think a potong unit would be a good idea. It will depend a lot on luck because we don't know its exact condition. It might just last for a few months. Or a few years if lucky.

Reconditioned/Rebuilt: I've read that there are different grades. The highest is "fully rebuilt" where the critical components have been replaced, and only the casing (repainted and looks shiny like new) and maybe screws are the original. Then "partly rebuilt"... "serviced". We don't really know which is which and have to take the seller's word for it. Maybe it's better to just bite the bullet and buy a new one where everything is really new. It might be more expensive but this is a critical component in the car. I've heard that a new unit should last 5-7 years. So maybe it will turn out to be cheaper over the longer term than buying recond ones.

Not sure how many ampere battery but is a original Proton Waja one. My friend changed to a recon unit which lasted only a year plus, so now trying the original unit. Problem is even though it cost so much, seems it does not have any warranty, means if it konk in 6 months, RM700 in burnt. Actually paying RM700 I don't mind if it comes with at least a year warranty, but to gamble with it looks like not worth....
As for me, I have tried half cut shop ones and probably no luck as one failed in one week only and the second unit about one to two months. That is why I went for recon unit. So far lasted about 2 years. Price of recon also more by RM50 to 70 only....

#22
justdoit

Posted 09 June 2014 - 08:13 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ May 29 2014, 08:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yah! I read some of the warranty clauses in some battery website, and pro-rata was mentioned. Not sure, but so far claimed twice only. One was this recent case concerning Century battery. I claimed once more some years ago, when bought this battery from my mechanic. This case even more lucky. The battery fail when I send my car for servicing, means after service done the battery not enough juice to crank. Checking his file, the battery warranty is due in like 1 week. He made a claim on it and I got a new battery.....ha! ha!


My Century Marathon lasted 28 months that came with 18 months warranty. The battery died while stucked in traffic jam. The towing truck guy jump started the battery and next day the car could be started easily. So I went to the shop and checked the charge and the reading was still ok, puzzling with the reading, the shop worker asked his boss to check further. The boss way of checking was to hold on the check button for 5-10 seconds before releasing it. And the reading did slowly decreased showing the condition of the battery was deteriorating and immediately i changed a new one.
moon

#23
cendana287

Posted 09 June 2014 - 06:48 PM

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QUOTE (justdoit @ Jun 9 2014, 08:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
My Century Marathon lasted 28 months that came with 18 months warranty. The battery died while stucked in traffic jam. The towing truck guy jump started the battery and next day the car could be started easily. So I went to the shop and checked the charge and the reading was still ok, puzzling with the reading, the shop worker asked his boss to check further. The boss way of checking was to hold on the check button for 5-10 seconds before releasing it. And the reading did slowly decreased showing the condition of the battery was deteriorating and immediately i changed a new one.


That's the more prudent thing to do. For one thing, it was already 28 months old. While it's true that some batteries could last more than three years, whenever a battery fails, that's a clear indication its plates have likely deteriorated. If if's confirmed that the alternator is performing its job (easily checked with a multimeter), it's time to get a new battery. That previous battery would likely have lasted a number of days - a few weeks even - and the driver would have felt "Everything is okay". But it's just a matter of time before it finally gives up the ghost.

If I'm not mistaken, that "check button for 5-10 second" is probably a load test being carried out. This gives a good indication of the battery's strength and condition. No one can say for sure how long a battery would last based on this test, or whatever other test for that matter. But the load test is reliable enough. It's better to replace a battery when "we want to" rather than wait until "we have to".


#24
vr2turbo

Posted 10 June 2014 - 08:20 AM

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QUOTE (justdoit @ Jun 9 2014, 08:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
My Century Marathon lasted 28 months that came with 18 months warranty. The battery died while stucked in traffic jam. The towing truck guy jump started the battery and next day the car could be started easily. So I went to the shop and checked the charge and the reading was still ok, puzzling with the reading, the shop worker asked his boss to check further. The boss way of checking was to hold on the check button for 5-10 seconds before releasing it. And the reading did slowly decreased showing the condition of the battery was deteriorating and immediately i changed a new one.

28 months is pretty good already, most of my batteries reach 24 max, some less....

#25
vr2turbo

Posted 10 June 2014 - 08:21 AM

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QUOTE (cendana287 @ Jun 9 2014, 06:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That's the more prudent thing to do. For one thing, it was already 28 months old. While it's true that some batteries could last more than three years, whenever a battery fails, that's a clear indication its plates have likely deteriorated. If if's confirmed that the alternator is performing its job (easily checked with a multimeter), it's time to get a new battery. That previous battery would likely have lasted a number of days - a few weeks even - and the driver would have felt "Everything is okay". But it's just a matter of time before it finally gives up the ghost.

If I'm not mistaken, that "check button for 5-10 second" is probably a load test being carried out. This gives a good indication of the battery's strength and condition. No one can say for sure how long a battery would last based on this test, or whatever other test for that matter. But the load test is reliable enough. It's better to replace a battery when "we want to" rather than wait until "we have to".

Yup, load tester. Seen them before. Good battery the pointer stays in the green region, while a weak one starts to drop after a few seconds...

#26
cendana287

Posted 10 June 2014 - 11:53 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 10 2014, 08:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yup, load tester. Seen them before. Good battery the pointer stays in the green region, while a weak one starts to drop after a few seconds...


This load testing would likely have saved me from ending up with a dead battery last month. I already knew that battery was nearing its service lifespan and I shouldn't have pushed my luck. Unfortunately, I had relied only on the voltage reading from the multimeter, thinking that there would be ample warning of impending failure. On that day, the reading was still "reasonable" at 12.4V. But the ampere - it wasn't enough to crank up the engine. The plates had deteriorated a lot. A load test would have warned me about the battery's true state. Okay, lesson learned.

#27
vr2turbo

Posted 11 June 2014 - 08:02 AM

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QUOTE (cendana287 @ Jun 10 2014, 11:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This load testing would likely have saved me from ending up with a dead battery last month. I already knew that battery was nearing its service lifespan and I shouldn't have pushed my luck. Unfortunately, I had relied only on the voltage reading from the multimeter, thinking that there would be ample warning of impending failure. On that day, the reading was still "reasonable" at 12.4V. But the ampere - it wasn't enough to crank up the engine. The plates had deteriorated a lot. A load test would have warned me about the battery's true state. Okay, lesson learned.

Thanks, you just reminded me on the amps. I also just checked my other car, the battery that is almost 2 years old, the voltage is at 12.6v, but in the morning the crank seems a bit slow, that is what prom me to check the voltage. Better load test it. Still safe as this car is manual and I have jumper cables for all my cars.... smile_tongue.gif

#28
vr2turbo

Posted 13 June 2014 - 07:34 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 11 2014, 08:02 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks, you just reminded me on the amps. I also just checked my other car, the battery that is almost 2 years old, the voltage is at 12.6v, but in the morning the crank seems a bit slow, that is what prom me to check the voltage. Better load test it. Still safe as this car is manual and I have jumper cables for all my cars.... smile_tongue.gif

Did not use the car for two days, the battery went flat, no need load test already....hahahhhaa smile_big.gif

#29
hcgui

Posted 18 June 2014 - 11:21 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 13 2014, 07:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Did not use the car for two days, the battery went flat, no need load test already....hahahhhaa smile_big.gif


hahaha. need new battery then! smile_tongue.gif

#30
vr2turbo

Posted 19 June 2014 - 08:38 AM

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QUOTE (hcgui @ Jun 18 2014, 11:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
hahaha. need new battery then! smile_tongue.gif

Changed already, using Non MF. Battery (check date) bought 27 months ago, more lasting then MF ones usually up to 18 months only....