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Engine Oil Filter


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#11
br1

Posted 07 June 2012 - 09:49 PM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 5 2012, 04:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Filter don't cost much leh! should change at every oil change.
Did you remove the filter and pour the dirty oil out, if not it will mix with your new oil.... smile_shock.gif


some are quite costly too, depending on cars!!! but 2 oil changed / filter is NO No to me!!!!

#12
bpguan

Posted 07 June 2012 - 10:33 PM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 7 2012, 08:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Probably torque with tools? oil filter for me is always hand tighten...... smile_thumbup.gif


yup agree on unker...for my diy case...hand tighten the oil filter...our hand got the torque for the oil filter specify torque...while loosen it...use oil filter wrench(3 claws type)

btw got a Q to ask..so do the original filter last 10k OCI?as i knw there's a valve inside the oil filter where when the filter element got blockage...the valve will open & there's no filtration anymore...

#13
vr2turbo

Posted 11 June 2012 - 11:31 AM

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QUOTE (bpguan @ Jun 7 2012, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yup agree on unker...for my diy case...hand tighten the oil filter...our hand got the torque for the oil filter specify torque...while loosen it...use oil filter wrench(3 claws type)

btw got a Q to ask..so do the original filter last 10k OCI?as i knw there's a valve inside the oil filter where when the filter element got blockage...the valve will open & there's no filtration anymore...

10k km for oil filter should not be a problem unless your engine is dirty. If dirty, then even your oil OCI should be earlier.
I used to do 10k km or 6 months whichever comes first, but have brought it down to 3 months or 5k km for my turbo.... smile_tongue.gif

#14
MM

Posted 11 June 2012 - 09:38 PM

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QUOTE (gjrforce @ Jun 7 2012, 01:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i am using K&N synthetic oil filter for 15k km oil change interval application or Nippon japan oil filter for 10k km.


Yo gjrforce!

May I know where did you buy those K&N oil filters, please?

Thanks



#15
ring

Posted 10 July 2012 - 12:29 PM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 11 2012, 11:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
10k km for oil filter should not be a problem unless your engine is dirty. If dirty, then even your oil OCI should be earlier.
I used to do 10k km or 6 months whichever comes first, but have brought it down to 3 months or 5k km for my turbo.... smile_tongue.gif


About OCI, it is very much depending your driving style, lubricant quality used and very own personal liking.

My business is in lubricant. Though I should advocate frequent OCI but I would not because each individual drive style is different.

My view is if you are always in city with frequent stop & go condition then only you consider OCI. This is also consistent with most car manufacturers that cover under "Severe Driving Condition" drive condition.

Pointer like oil generation grade is important. SM grade will have better protection than SG or SL as it inhibits slug, vanish & carbon. Next just take a look at its bottling and no to bother those local brands coz not all follow API standard.
Ring

"IDEMITSU engine oil and YUASA Battery...A truely Japanese quality product"

#16
vr2turbo

Posted 10 July 2012 - 02:56 PM

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QUOTE (ring @ Jul 10 2012, 12:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
About OCI, it is very much depending your driving style, lubricant quality used and very own personal liking.

My business is in lubricant. Though I should advocate frequent OCI but I would not because each individual drive style is different.

My view is if you are always in city with frequent stop & go condition then only you consider OCI. This is also consistent with most car manufacturers that cover under "Severe Driving Condition" drive condition.

Pointer like oil generation grade is important. SM grade will have better protection than SG or SL as it inhibits slug, vanish & carbon. Next just take a look at its bottling and no to bother those local brands coz not all follow API standard.

Yes, under severe conditions a shorter OCI should be considered, but older engine on newer SM oil may not necessary be better as they have less zinc additives....

#17
ring

Posted 24 July 2012 - 04:56 PM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jul 10 2012, 02:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yes, under severe conditions a shorter OCI should be considered, but older engine on newer SM oil may not necessary be better as they have less zinc additives....


Actually for older engine one needs to observe API grade. Newer tends to have better cleaning agent, low carbon & not the older ones. Which also translate higher price.

i.e. 1 cents Gets 1 cts (better) goods (Read in Cantonese smile_wink.gif )
Ring

"IDEMITSU engine oil and YUASA Battery...A truely Japanese quality product"

#18
Tham58

Posted 25 July 2012 - 02:25 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 5 2012, 01:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Filter don't cost much leh! should change at every oil change.
Did you remove the filter and pour the dirty oil out, if not it will mix with your new oil.... smile_shock.gif




The filter fills with less than half a liter of oil, so the old oil
mixing with nearly 4 liters of new oil is of insignificance, I guess.

Taking out and reinstalling the filter may mess around with the O-ring,
with the risk of causing leaks later.

So I played safe and just left the filter as it is.



#19
cygnus

Posted 25 July 2012 - 11:46 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jun 5 2012, 04:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Filter don't cost much leh! should change at every oil change.
Did you remove the filter and pour the dirty oil out, if not it will mix with your new oil.... smile_shock.gif


Beside old oil in the filter, there is plenty more sticking everywhere in the engine. U wanna clean it as well?
Under normal driving condition, there's almost nothing get trapped in the canister. I have cut open some.
Hence we should prolong the usage of oil filter. To me, changing at every oil change is a waste of $ and environment-unfriendly.

#20
vr2turbo

Posted 25 July 2012 - 06:13 PM

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Park for a while before draining and also drain longer period...... smile_tongue.gif