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Skil Polisher 9070


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#11
dschia

Posted 03 June 2010 - 01:09 AM

dschia

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QUOTE (jackson @ Jun 2 2010, 08:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Grexer,
In hindsight, I would say just get an ROB.

For the stuff that would need an RB, I'd rather save the money, and send it to a reputable, trusted shop and get the car properly polished, compounded, etc.

Then, I would use the ROB, proper carwash method as maintenance. Applying waxes,sealants, or ROB with Menzerna 85RD or 3M Ultrafina.

You would need to go to the shop at most once a year. This is provided you DO NOT send to petrol station carwash regularly, or man on bicycle wash your car daily services.

I bought my Bohai because it was cheap, and I always wanted to play with an RB. But practicality wise, I would say get the ROB. If I had to choose only one, I would get the ROB.


I agree with this, if I am a DIYer and had to choose one, my vote will go to ROB or DA. RB can achieve much more but it does take plenty of experience to master. Not quite practical if is just to be use on your ride unless your intention is to learn more about machine polishing. ROB and DA on the other hand can be use as frequent as you like to replace hand work. Ideally, should put effort more on performing safe wash, then learn to fill in and optimise paintwork protection.

I realise discouraging the removal of clearcoat is not always only because of strikethrough, in fact I am suspecting wax and sealant could not protect as usual on much thinner clear for whatever reason. This is some observation made when I regularly maintain different cars. There are articles that stress on this theory but when you experience it first hand, it will emphasis more on the importance of keeping your clearcoat integrity. Just my opinion though. However, if you are anal abt a perfect finish and have already prepared for that kind of detailing commitment, then get a RB..

#12
g88

Posted 03 June 2010 - 07:30 AM

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1000 RPM is too high speed.

#13
vr2turbo

Posted 03 June 2010 - 10:34 AM

vr2turbo

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All discussion come back to square one. If doing maintenance work most of the time buy the ROB.
If into perfect job DIY then buy the RB too......

#14
GRexer

Posted 07 June 2010 - 01:47 AM

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Actually I was thinking of using a modified B&D KP600 to do the maintenance work(waxing) and the Skil Polisher for correction work, unfortunately for us, there ain't no DA options in Malaysia to choose from. smile_sleepy.gif

#15
2322

Posted 07 June 2010 - 02:56 AM

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QUOTE (GRexer @ Jun 7 2010, 01:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Actually I was thinking of using a modified B&D KP600 to do the maintenance work(waxing) and the Skil Polisher for correction work, unfortunately for us, there ain't no DA options in Malaysia to choose from. smile_sleepy.gif


DA can grab from singaland smile_approve.gif

#16
g88

Posted 07 June 2010 - 08:21 AM

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QUOTE (GRexer @ Jun 7 2010, 01:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Actually I was thinking of using a modified B&D KP600 to do the maintenance work(waxing) and the Skil Polisher for correction work, unfortunately for us, there ain't no DA options in Malaysia to choose from. smile_sleepy.gif


got option..its the matter of doctor M ($$) only biggrin.gif...

#17
SPiD3RMaN

Posted 07 June 2010 - 07:55 PM

SPiD3RMaN

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QUOTE (GRexer @ Jun 7 2010, 01:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Actually I was thinking of using a modified B&D KP600 to do the maintenance work(waxing) and the Skil Polisher for correction work, unfortunately for us, there ain't no DA options in Malaysia to choose from. smile_sleepy.gif

Waxing is best done by hand tongue.gif
Nothing beats giving some TLC to the paint job without a machine getting involve wink.gif

#18
jackson

Posted 07 June 2010 - 08:33 PM

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wahey SPiD3RMaN,
glad you managed to crawl out from under whichever rock you were 'hiding'/'trapped' under.

good to have you back. smile_cool.gif
It's easy when you know how...

#19
mubull

Posted 08 June 2010 - 12:31 PM

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QUOTE (GRexer @ May 31 2010, 03:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Was wondering if anyone had heard of the "new" SKIL Polisher 9070 rotary buffer? Costs around RM300+, supposed to have a minimum no load speed of 1000rpm(not sure if it bogs down, need to try out a unit to know) and maximum speed of 3000rpm, with what seemed like 5 speed options (Speed selector up to 5). Spindle is M14 thread, weighs around 3.2KG as well.

No load speed seems a tad too high compared to the minimum 600rpm of Hitachi/Makita, but for the price of a Random Orbit Buffer, is it worth a try? Considering the Bosch GEX-125AE is around RM300+ as well. Or the Ken 9518BE is even more worth it for the price?

Standard accessories include M14 to M16 adaptor, 7" Velcro pad, 7" Sponge pad, seems like quite complete to start buffing except the need to buy more pads.

My user are using these machine and bought LC 5" backing plate and other pads since he feel the 7" too big. Only complaint from him is started from 1000 rpm , so I told him spreading the product with machine off.
cheers.... Duragloss The Wet Look
www.duragloss.com.my
facebook.com/duraglossmalaysia

#20
vr2turbo

Posted 08 June 2010 - 08:58 PM

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QUOTE (SPiD3RMaN @ Jun 7 2010, 07:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Waxing is best done by hand tongue.gif
Nothing beats giving some TLC to the paint job without a machine getting involve wink.gif

Waxing by hand..... smile_thumbup.gif
Maintenance work by machine as in polishing.... smile_approve.gif