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Same Product Different Results


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#21
sllk

Posted 27 January 2014 - 07:54 PM

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hi albert,

how do you apply Sonax Polymer Net Shield ?

#22
vr2turbo

Posted 27 January 2014 - 08:26 PM

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QUOTE (sllk @ Jan 27 2014, 07:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
hi albert,

how do you apply Sonax Polymer Net Shield ?

Got member ask liao...... smile_tongue.gif

#23
jklow123

Posted 28 January 2014 - 07:53 AM

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QUOTE (sllk @ Jan 27 2014, 07:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
hi albert,

how do you apply Sonax Polymer Net Shield ?


Overall Rule:
1. Apply to small area 2'x2' as quickly as possible.
Do not ever do a complete door in one go.
2. Buff off immediately! And check immediately.
3. Applicator shd be as stiff/flex-free as possible but with soft surface.

As with any coatings, I hv an OCD about applying these stuff properly cos most of the mftrs are not specialist detailing prdts manufacturers and cant be bothered to R&D a proper foolproof application method, leaving the user to figure it out by trial and error. Anyway, PNS is a sealant.

If you use a regular round foam applicator (most diff method), its diff to apply cos the prdt is "draggy" and your fingers will be quickly tired. It doesnt glide smoothly, and u'll end up using lots of product.

You shd use a stiff sponge/foam applicator (the stiffer, the better) but such an applicator that comes with the PNS feels rough. So, i wrap this stiff sponge with an MF cloth, and the result is a stiff but soft MF applicator.
Try not to spray directly onto paintwork, cos it'll be diff to spread out smoothly and thinly.
I like to work in darkness with only 1 light source.

Spray 2 short bursts onto your self-created applicator to prime it and start applying in straight strokes, not circular. Always divide bonnet into 4, trunk into 2, and big doors into 4, because you have to buff off immediately. Even 15sec is too long. With MF applicator, a little goes a long way, and u get a superthin layer. Buff immediately. When i finish applying bonnet, i will switch to a "fresh" area of the MF on my applicator, cos the PNS dries so fast.
Can be applied onto any plastic trim and looks great.

I leave it to cure for 12hrs, and if you apply 2nd layer, the hydrophobicity is even crazier.

#24
vr2turbo

Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:22 AM

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QUOTE (jklow123 @ Jan 28 2014, 07:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Overall Rule:
1. Apply to small area 2'x2' as quickly as possible.
Do not ever do a complete door in one go.
2. Buff off immediately! And check immediately.
3. Applicator shd be as stiff/flex-free as possible but with soft surface.

As with any coatings, I hv an OCD about applying these stuff properly cos most of the mftrs are not specialist detailing prdts manufacturers and cant be bothered to R&D a proper foolproof application method, leaving the user to figure it out by trial and error. Anyway, PNS is a sealant.

If you use a regular round foam applicator (most diff method), its diff to apply cos the prdt is "draggy" and your fingers will be quickly tired. It doesnt glide smoothly, and u'll end up using lots of product.

You shd use a stiff sponge/foam applicator (the stiffer, the better) but such an applicator that comes with the PNS feels rough. So, i wrap this stiff sponge with an MF cloth, and the result is a stiff but soft MF applicator.
Try not to spray directly onto paintwork, cos it'll be diff to spread out smoothly and thinly.
I like to work in darkness with only 1 light source.

Spray 2 short bursts onto your self-created applicator to prime it and start applying in straight strokes, not circular. Always divide bonnet into 4, trunk into 2, and big doors into 4, because you have to buff off immediately. Even 15sec is too long. With MF applicator, a little goes a long way, and u get a superthin layer. Buff immediately. When i finish applying bonnet, i will switch to a "fresh" area of the MF on my applicator, cos the PNS dries so fast.
Can be applied onto any plastic trim and looks great.

I leave it to cure for 12hrs, and if you apply 2nd layer, the hydrophobicity is even crazier.

Bro., already immediately buff off still need to cure? And even after cure do we buff again or just leave it? or do you mean leave 12 hours between layers?

#25
KrisMas

Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:18 AM

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QUOTE (jklow123 @ Jan 28 2014, 07:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Overall Rule:
1. Apply to small area 2'x2' as quickly as possible.
Do not ever do a complete door in one go.
2. Buff off immediately! And check immediately.
3. Applicator shd be as stiff/flex-free as possible but with soft surface.

I can attest to this with PNS. After trying out a few methods and applicator type, an mf wrap around a still sponge currently worked best for me. But I didn't try no. 1 though. Will have a go at it next time around. Thanks for the up.

#26
sllk

Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:29 AM

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thanks for the tip! will try it this weekend smile.gif


#27
jklow123

Posted 28 January 2014 - 09:54 AM

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QUOTE (vr2turbo @ Jan 28 2014, 08:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Bro., already immediately buff off still need to cure? And even after cure do we buff again or just leave it? or do you mean leave 12 hours between layers?


There is no drying period, so buff immediately. Then...curing period starts. Do not buff any more during curing period, cos dry-buffing might cause micro-marring, especially on soft clearcoats. Then, after 12hrs curing, you can apply 2nd layer if necessary.
When applying 2nd layer, it wont be any easier.
From my findings, you hv to use slightly more PNS during 2nd layer for an even, thin layer.

On another vehicle, i applied Sonax's coating first (Nano Lack Protect) using same technique. After 3days curing, i proceeded to apply PNS. Crazy hydrophobicity, 100% no staining problems even when washed once every 7days, with all dirt and stains coming off even with no shampoo used. I did not see any watermark problems at all. Still testing.

#28
KrisMas

Posted 28 January 2014 - 11:38 AM

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QUOTE (jklow123 @ Jan 28 2014, 09:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
On another vehicle, i applied Sonax's coating first (Nano Lack Protect) using same technique. After 3days curing, i proceeded to apply PNS. Crazy hydrophobicity, 100% no staining problems even when washed once every 7days, with all dirt and stains coming off even with no shampoo used. I did not see any watermark problems at all. Still testing.

hrrrmm....good to hear that. But unfortunately NLP is *almost* impossible to purchase locally....... sad.gif

#29
sllk

Posted 28 January 2014 - 11:54 AM

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The sonax line is a bit confusing as they have so many of the spray type LSP

1. SONAX Premium Class Nano Paint Coating
2. SONAX Nano Paint Protect Kit
3. SONAX Xtreme Protect & Shine Hybrid NPT
4. SONAX ProfiLine Polymer Net Shield


#30
jklow123

Posted 28 January 2014 - 01:04 PM

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QUOTE (sllk @ Jan 28 2014, 11:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The sonax line is a bit confusing as they have so many of the spray type LSP

1. SONAX Premium Class Nano Paint Coating
2. SONAX Nano Paint Protect Kit
3. SONAX Xtreme Protect & Shine Hybrid NPT
4. SONAX ProfiLine Polymer Net Shield


As usual with most detailing prdts manufacturers, they dont make it explicitly clear what is the core difference between Product A vs B in the same category.

1.SONAX Premium Class Nano Paint Coating
This was supposed to replace the one below (2).
Comes with a triangular applicator and black packaging.
Based on what i heard, will be discontinued soon.
As usual..users dont know how to use properly due to very vague instructions.

2. SONAX Nano Paint Protect Kit
Remains SONAX's classic coating product.
Small red aerosol canister.

3. SONAX Xtreme Protect & Shine Hybrid NPT
The consumer version of 4 (below)....so gives you slightly more "playing time" before needing to buff off.

4. SONAX ProfiLine Polymer Net Shield
The professional version of 3 (above).