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Satria Neo High Speed
Started by
Copernicus
, May 29 2012 11:39 AM, 8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 May 2012 - 11:39 AM
Hello Folks,
I'm back after sometime. Just for the records i have 'degraded' from my 2004 Waja to a 2008 Satria Neo recently.
Apart from cheaper monthly installment ,the reason changed is just that my ex waja is no more powerful.. 4G18 is getting too old for me.
okay the actual problem, when i received the car (H-Line) , tested the top speed (on very safe road) i was able to reach 180kmh... then nothing... after some light modification, de cat|4-1 extractor|mid bullet upgrade|Works Drop in filter|lighter 16" rims) i'm able to reach 200kmh (again in controlled and safe environment).. but unfortunately my i have some vibration on steering wheel after 160kmh.... :-(
Must be due to rims.Already done with balancing| Centre Hub Ring| but not much difference.
Anyone has any idea's . Thanks a million.
I'm back after sometime. Just for the records i have 'degraded' from my 2004 Waja to a 2008 Satria Neo recently.
Apart from cheaper monthly installment ,the reason changed is just that my ex waja is no more powerful.. 4G18 is getting too old for me.
okay the actual problem, when i received the car (H-Line) , tested the top speed (on very safe road) i was able to reach 180kmh... then nothing... after some light modification, de cat|4-1 extractor|mid bullet upgrade|Works Drop in filter|lighter 16" rims) i'm able to reach 200kmh (again in controlled and safe environment).. but unfortunately my i have some vibration on steering wheel after 160kmh.... :-(
Must be due to rims.Already done with balancing| Centre Hub Ring| but not much difference.
Anyone has any idea's . Thanks a million.
#2
Posted 01 June 2012 - 10:15 AM
QUOTE (Copernicus @ May 29 2012, 11:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hello Folks,
I'm back after sometime. Just for the records i have 'degraded' from my 2004 Waja to a 2008 Satria Neo recently.
Apart from cheaper monthly installment ,the reason changed is just that my ex waja is no more powerful.. 4G18 is getting too old for me.
okay the actual problem, when i received the car (H-Line) , tested the top speed (on very safe road) i was able to reach 180kmh... then nothing... after some light modification, de cat|4-1 extractor|mid bullet upgrade|Works Drop in filter|lighter 16" rims) i'm able to reach 200kmh (again in controlled and safe environment).. but unfortunately my i have some vibration on steering wheel after 160kmh.... :-(
Must be due to rims.Already done with balancing| Centre Hub Ring| but not much difference.
Anyone has any idea's . Thanks a million.
I'm back after sometime. Just for the records i have 'degraded' from my 2004 Waja to a 2008 Satria Neo recently.
Apart from cheaper monthly installment ,the reason changed is just that my ex waja is no more powerful.. 4G18 is getting too old for me.
okay the actual problem, when i received the car (H-Line) , tested the top speed (on very safe road) i was able to reach 180kmh... then nothing... after some light modification, de cat|4-1 extractor|mid bullet upgrade|Works Drop in filter|lighter 16" rims) i'm able to reach 200kmh (again in controlled and safe environment).. but unfortunately my i have some vibration on steering wheel after 160kmh.... :-(
Must be due to rims.Already done with balancing| Centre Hub Ring| but not much difference.
Anyone has any idea's . Thanks a million.
ur steering bushing ok or not ?
waahhh.! why 4 door to 2 door ? bujang kembali izzit ?

#3
Posted 01 June 2012 - 10:29 PM
QUOTE (mosh @ Jun 1 2012, 10:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
ur steering bushing ok or not ?
waahhh.! why 4 door to 2 door ? bujang kembali izzit ?
waahhh.! why 4 door to 2 door ? bujang kembali izzit ?

If steering bush ok then Most probably due to rim.
U can also Try a different shop to balance the rear tyre.



#4
Posted 05 June 2012 - 08:51 AM
QUOTE (mosh @ Jun 1 2012, 10:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
ur steering bushing ok or not ?
waahhh.! why 4 door to 2 door ? bujang kembali izzit ?
waahhh.! why 4 door to 2 door ? bujang kembali izzit ?

Okay, i'll check on my steering bush.. so far no any freeplays..
Basically changed the car just to whack for work... i travel like 50km per day up and down alone..
still single la bro....:-)
#5
Posted 05 June 2012 - 08:54 AM
QUOTE (Gunnerzz @ Jun 1 2012, 10:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
If steering bush ok then Most probably due to rim.
U can also Try a different shop to balance the rear tyre.
U can also Try a different shop to balance the rear tyre.
Yeah, but most of the the tyre shop has the normal balancing... not the high speed...
so i think it might not improve as i dont encounter this vibration until i tekan abit..
#6
Posted 13 June 2012 - 04:39 PM
mostly is due to balancing. Change your usual tire shop. Try others. Its always the balancing. I kena many times before and this is true for certain cars which are very very very sensitive to slight off balance of the wheels. I used to have a lot of headache with it.
Some tyre shop once they check the balance its ok. But then when u get it done at another shop.... it shows that the balance is not on the dot. Apa macam??? I also dunno... Just try other shops.
If very sensitive, some shops will go for on wheel balancing. Some shops i noticed, the balancing they do usually is more to tolerate less than 100kmh speeds. I usually tell them i speed a lot more than 130. So they know that i would be fussy and do their work more carefully.
Some tyre shop once they check the balance its ok. But then when u get it done at another shop.... it shows that the balance is not on the dot. Apa macam??? I also dunno... Just try other shops.
If very sensitive, some shops will go for on wheel balancing. Some shops i noticed, the balancing they do usually is more to tolerate less than 100kmh speeds. I usually tell them i speed a lot more than 130. So they know that i would be fussy and do their work more carefully.
#7
Posted 20 June 2012 - 12:05 AM
I would think if balancing was a problem it would register much earlier than 160. You never mentioned what tyre profiles you have and what tyre pressure you are running. A comfort oriented tyre would have sideways play. You know its a comfort tyre by how it bulges on the sidewall. Try reducing tyre pressure by 1 or 2 psi. A 16 in 45 profile should be around 31-32psi. But again it depends on the tyre. You have got to do some trial and error with this.
I do suspect its the rubber bushings which is an integral part of the suspension. Next time you have the car up on the lifts, go check all the mountings. Not just the front.
Several other ideas; drop it down an inch. A lower body means a much proper flow of air under the car. It also reduces centre of gravity. Add sideskirts. This will help in forcing air going straight under the car and reduces turbulence.
The R3 has same width track for front and rear wheels. Normal Neos have a smaller width for the rear. Consider spacers for your rear ones. It helps with understeer too.
I do suspect its the rubber bushings which is an integral part of the suspension. Next time you have the car up on the lifts, go check all the mountings. Not just the front.
Several other ideas; drop it down an inch. A lower body means a much proper flow of air under the car. It also reduces centre of gravity. Add sideskirts. This will help in forcing air going straight under the car and reduces turbulence.
The R3 has same width track for front and rear wheels. Normal Neos have a smaller width for the rear. Consider spacers for your rear ones. It helps with understeer too.
Hell's Engine Class of Arau 88
#8
Posted 16 July 2012 - 07:56 PM
QUOTE (bobdbilder @ Jun 20 2012, 12:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I would think if balancing was a problem it would register much earlier than 160. You never mentioned what tyre profiles you have and what tyre pressure you are running. A comfort oriented tyre would have sideways play. You know its a comfort tyre by how it bulges on the sidewall. Try reducing tyre pressure by 1 or 2 psi. A 16 in 45 profile should be around 31-32psi. But again it depends on the tyre. You have got to do some trial and error with this.
I do suspect its the rubber bushings which is an integral part of the suspension. Next time you have the car up on the lifts, go check all the mountings. Not just the front.
Several other ideas; drop it down an inch. A lower body means a much proper flow of air under the car. It also reduces centre of gravity. Add sideskirts. This will help in forcing air going straight under the car and reduces turbulence.
The R3 has same width track for front and rear wheels. Normal Neos have a smaller width for the rear. Consider spacers for your rear ones. It helps with understeer too.
I do suspect its the rubber bushings which is an integral part of the suspension. Next time you have the car up on the lifts, go check all the mountings. Not just the front.
Several other ideas; drop it down an inch. A lower body means a much proper flow of air under the car. It also reduces centre of gravity. Add sideskirts. This will help in forcing air going straight under the car and reduces turbulence.
The R3 has same width track for front and rear wheels. Normal Neos have a smaller width for the rear. Consider spacers for your rear ones. It helps with understeer too.
normal neo's have similar front & rear track (front 1460-rear 1460), neo cps has narrow front track & wider rear track normal neo ( front 1450- rear 1470)
#9
Posted 27 July 2012 - 03:40 PM
QUOTE (h4dri @ Jul 16 2012, 07:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
normal neo's have similar front & rear track (front 1460-rear 1460), neo cps has narrow front track & wider rear track normal neo ( front 1450- rear 1470)
You are quite right on that one. A little bit off; CPS has F/R 1467/1483 but you are on the money. So the R3 went back to 1470 F and R. That's not the only thing that's wrong with the CPS. Major one is the intake snorkel.
Hell's Engine Class of Arau 88