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Another S4ph Being Rebuilt


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#1
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:27 AM

drexchan

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Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs or modifications, or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at their own risk, and no liability will attach to either myself, EA or autoworld.com.my.

This engine is hitting 140,000 km soon and the owner has always been a motorhead, kaki touge and really abusive when it comes to getting the engine into action. So he decided to get the engine taken apart for a complete rebuild, plus some internal modifications.

It all started with the head servicing, and what i am going to share here regarding to head servicing for Campro is on reconditioning the hydraulic lifters.

Servicing the hydraulic lifter/tappet is very important prior to putting the head back into action. This is also a very important step when a new camshaft is installed. Each lifter must be inspected and serviced if necessary before the engine is operated. A pumped-up lifter will prevent the valve from closing properly. Engine may suffer from loosing compression, intake blow back and poor ignition. Worse result is V/P contact and you are going to screw-up the whole engine.

In addition to that, checking hydraulic lifter preload is a crucial step in installing new performance camshaft. Many installers were LUCKY because all they had were the reground cams.

My preferred way (as of now) is to not having any preloading before firing up the engine, and let the lifters self-loading by the motion of the valve train and lubrication system.

Since the old head is in bad shape (due to long oil change interval), it has been swapped with a used unit in very new condition. The 'new' head has been completely stripped down. Etch-cleaned and hub-brushed to remove all impurities (oil, dirt, carbon deposit).

The valve train has been completely disassemble, cleaned and worn-out parts are replaced. Picture shows newly installed valve stem seals. Springs are in placed, ready to be 'retained'


12 valves reinstalled with the retainer and collets. 4 more to go.


Internal parts of a hydraulic lifter (direct lifting, bucket type). Picture shows the cleaned pistons, springs and cylinders, ready to be reassemble back into the lifter main body (bucket).


The buckets are labelled accordingly upon removal. Special cleaner is used to clean the parts to preserve the labels. Buckets ar coated with a thin layer of oil after cleaning.


Oiling the piston. Housed on the tip is a small ball check-valve and a tiny loading spring. This is the most important part of a hydraulic lifter. If this part fails, you either getting a noisy head (tickling noise/tappet noise), or a completely failed head.


I need to trim my finger nails. ohmy.gif

#2
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:29 AM

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Inserting the piston and main spring back into the cylinder. The cylinder is also called 'pressure chamber', where pressure is regulated/adjusted to maintain zero clearance between the cam lobe and the bucket face. It's this cylinder that's pressing on the valve stem end, which lift the valve.


Testing the plunger (piston + spring + cylinder). It should be compressing and extending freely. It shouldn't be too tight or too loose, otherwise you will need to get another piston/cylinder combination.


Replacing the plunger back into the bucket main body. A small plastic hammer is used to 'knock' it back in place. After this, it's rather difficult to be removed due to lack of pressure inside the cylinder. Wondering how it should be removed in the first place? No I am not going to tell.. ;P


Lubricating the bucket before reinserting it back into the lifter channel.


Do not force or being rough when you are doing this. Also check the channel for impurities, dirt or scratch mark before reinserting the bucket.


Camshafts are reinstalled after this. The head is heady for some action once the bottom is completed being modified.

#3
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:44 AM

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Modified parts hasve just been received from the machinist, being prepared to our specification. Cylinders have been rebored to house the oversized pistons. Pistons and conrods have been weigh-balanced, the crank damper, the shaft, flywheel and clutch housing have been dynamically balanced. Not much weight has been reduced from the internal parts for this time (no purposeful lightening)




Newly bored cylinders. Residue of the head gasket material will be removed with hub-brushing.


For those who asked if the lining might be too thin. 5mm. Another 0.5mm to go before it's really too thin, but then we have to call-in the custom pistons. I trimmed my finger nails if you notice. tongue.gif


Before cleaning.


#4
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:47 AM

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Cleaning the screw thread to remove any machining debris and old thread-lock compound. Look at the shinny threads. This took me 2 hours for every single thread hole I can find on the block.


Residue of gasket and sealant material has been removed by hub-brushing, leaving a clean matte surface for better sealing later.


Hub-brushing removed all the rust and deposit, revealing the birth-cert of the engine. 4 years old from Shah Alam.


The 'prepared' block. Gasket, sealant and shellac residue on all surface removed. Every single screw thread cleaned with thread-tappers. Blow-dusted and lightly coated with WD40.


Bling-bling oil pan and FEAD plate.


#5
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:52 AM

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Crankshaft assembled. Flywheel oil seal assembled. FEAD plate assembled.


Pistons & Conrods installed. The crankcase is ready to be sealed. All the bearings & journal are pre-oiled.
The pump has been primed too.


From bottom in the crankcase. Lubricant is applied onto the cylinder wall below the piston rings. Crankcase is then sealed-off with the oil sump/pan. We have a special 'leak-up test' to check on the amount of oil leaking through the piston rings to reach the upper part. Not going to share, anyway. xD


The rings passed the 'leak-up test' with minimum oil leaking through the rings to reach the top. Piston tops are wiped clean afterward.


The block is finally standing right side up.



#6
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:54 AM

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Covered with the head gasket in its packaging to prevent contamination. More work tomorrow.


UPDATE (sorry for not updating for so long, been busy with some other projects):

Short block in the bay. Starter, compressor, pump and alternator installed.


Torqueing the head bolts. 20ft.lbs -> 30ft.lbs -> 40ft.lbs.


New spark plugs too.


New standard exhaust header gasket. Most seals and gaskets are genuine proton parts. Crank and conrod bearings are of better alternatives.


#7
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:56 AM

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Cleaned throttle body. It was.. well, gruesome!


Awaken from a long coma. Fluid leak tested, no problem. Intake system goes in and it's all done.


#8
drexchan

Posted 31 October 2010 - 03:58 AM

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red: before rebuild, apex'i filter + custom intake system, before lub change, standard NGK plugs. 114ps @ 6000 rpm, 147Nm @ 4200 rpm

blue: after rebuild, stock paper filter + stock intake system.
oversized pistons, internal balancing with minimal lightening, Autolite platinum, before lub change. 122ps @ 6000 rpm, 155Nm @ 4200 rpm

*note: anything below 2500 rpm and above 6500 rpm is inaccurate.

#9
drexchan

Posted 12 November 2010 - 12:07 AM

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updated with more photographs showing the completion stage of the engine. Been busy with something else so hardly have time to update.

Now waiting for a missing part of the intake system (owner misplaced it) and the car will be ready to be discharged from the ICU.

#10
vr2turbo

Posted 12 November 2010 - 07:49 AM

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This engine still running on Spark Cables?
I thought most newer engines, have the coil on top of the sparkies??