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Temp Over 90 If Aircond Off

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#31
stevie8

Posted 04 February 2010 - 04:22 PM

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QUOTE (Andy214 @ Feb 4 2010, 11:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Stevie8,

Thanks for your detailed and informative reply~ smile_thumbup.gif smile_thumbup.gif smile_thumbup.gif

Yup, I'm using Peugeot's premixed coolant, and possibly one reason why those people who use peugeot original coolant have higher temperature compared to those who mix the coolant themselves or top up with water. But still, I'm worried and not willing to take the risk to use distilled water to mix, haha; The radiator is not cheap like my previous car smile_tongue.gif

Anyway, I believe that time something is wrong because previous trips I went to Pahang with the convoys, and we're driving hard at Karak, then Bentong, and especially Camang and Old Genting Sempah; we're driving really hard; I didn't notice the temperature go up so high before.
Just yesterday, I experience once again,the temperature rises up to 95C and the fan did not kick in. I waited a while, then it kicke in. I think something is wrong... maybe the relay? Termostat? No idea, have to get it checked; It's hard to detect because it only happen like once in a blue moon the fan didn't run; and sometimes I "feel" the low-speed fan didn't run but can't confirm unless I go outside and monitor it. I also think this "effect" is caused by "starting" of the car, if the fan goes crazy (didn't run as it should), then most probably the whole time it will be like this until the next start; probably when the car start-up, something went wrong with the initialization? No idea, unless I have some device to check and monitor all the conditions, etc. That'll be nice to have~

By the way, recently after my service; I notice the engine isn't smooth especially when turn on air-cond; the engine like choking or "juk.. juk... juk.. juk", not sure how to explain, when I leave my hand on the gearknob (min'es a manual btw), I can feel the engine shaking.
Anybody have any idea? Would overfill of engine oil cause this, or thinner oil will cause this, because that SC ran out of 5W40 the usual I use, and I have to switch to the much more expensive Quartz Ineo ECS 5W30...
I really feel uneasy and at time feels like the engine want to die off especially during traffic jams; plus this also cause moving off the car in 1st gear really not smooth...
Not sure is the engine oil or maybe the settings... annoying, usually after service one would expect to be better...

Anyway, you're a one of a kind salesperson! Very knowledgeable and take the initiative to know more about your line of work including other stuffs! That's very good and very rare! smile_thumbup.gif smile_thumbup.gif smile_thumbup.gif


Hi Andy,

About the fan kickstart it could be due to the sensor. When it has reach the predetermined temp it should kick start. It is hard to tell since it is intermittent.

Engine shaking and not smooth? If it happened during cold start it could be the auto choke. If auto choke is functioning the rpm should goes higher than 1000 when the engine is cold. With above 1000rpm the car engine should not shake or jerk. It could be idling valve then especially if it happens to a warm engine. The idling valve control the right amount of air and fuel entering combustion chamber during idling depending if the aircond is on or off to maintain the idling rpm speed below 1000rpm but not too low till the car/engine shaking and safe fuel. By engaging the gear the idling (rpm) get further affected and the jolt getting worse. The idling valve could be dirty. Simply give a service to the idling valve will solve the problem. Service means take it out and clean it and put it back. Try not to DIY. Get a mechanic to do it. You may not put it back properly. Sometimes it is better to get outside mechanic advice. They could explain better and more willing to explain and commit due to their experience in servicing teruk teruk cars. What the BB SC handling are mostly road worthy new almost problem free cars, except minor ones lah. Just like comparing a professional boxer master of the rings and rules but no match with a streets fighter who will use all available means parang included and run if they must. So, make sure they dont run away after taking down all your parts and dont know how to put back, hahahahaha. Then it could also be your clutch system. Less unlikely but how long have you not change the clutch? It could not be the type of engine oil especially so when it is new regardless if it is semi, fully sync or mineral. Do not overfull the engine with oil, we are advised. So suck it out asap.

Cheers
Stevie


#32
stevie8

Posted 04 February 2010 - 04:56 PM

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QUOTE (stevie8 @ Feb 4 2010, 04:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Andy,

About the fan kickstart it could be due to the sensor. When it has reach the predetermined temp it should kick start. It is hard to tell since it is intermittent.

Engine shaking and not smooth? If it happened during cold start it could be the auto choke. If auto choke is functioning the rpm should goes higher than 1000 when the engine is cold. With above 1000rpm the car engine should not shake or jerk. It could be idling valve then especially if it happens to a warm engine. The idling valve control the right amount of air and fuel entering combustion chamber during idling depending if the aircond is on or off to maintain the idling rpm speed below 1000rpm but not too low till the car/engine shaking and safe fuel. By engaging the gear the idling (rpm) get further affected and the jolt getting worse. The idling valve could be dirty. Simply give a service to the idling valve will solve the problem. Service means take it out and clean it and put it back. Try not to DIY. Get a mechanic to do it. You may not put it back properly. Sometimes it is better to get outside mechanic advice. They could explain better and more willing to explain and commit due to their experience in servicing teruk teruk cars. What the BB SC handling are mostly road worthy new almost problem free cars, except minor ones lah. Just like comparing a professional boxer master of the rings and rules but no match with a streets fighter who will use all available means parang included and run if they must. So, make sure they dont run away after taking down all your parts and dont know how to put back, hahahahaha. Then it could also be your clutch system. Less unlikely but how long have you not change the clutch? It could not be the type of engine oil especially so when it is new regardless if it is semi, fully sync or mineral. Do not overfull the engine with oil, we are advised. So suck it out asap.

Cheers
Stevie



The clutch I am refering to is the clutch disk or pad.

Professional, I mean do or die they will fix your problem and will not run away. Just like a boxer even if he receives lot of punches he still remain standing in the rings waiting for the bell to ring and refresh and back again. So, get advice from streets fighter and then say you have no time but you go BB. That is if you are not comfortable with outside mechanic who has bad reputable as far as malaysia is concerned compared with authorized SC but prepared to pay the price either way.

#33
Andy214

Posted 05 February 2010 - 11:26 AM

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QUOTE (stevie8 @ Feb 4 2010, 04:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Andy,

About the fan kickstart it could be due to the sensor. When it has reach the predetermined temp it should kick start. It is hard to tell since it is intermittent.

Engine shaking and not smooth? If it happened during cold start it could be the auto choke. If auto choke is functioning the rpm should goes higher than 1000 when the engine is cold. With above 1000rpm the car engine should not shake or jerk. It could be idling valve then especially if it happens to a warm engine. The idling valve control the right amount of air and fuel entering combustion chamber during idling depending if the aircond is on or off to maintain the idling rpm speed below 1000rpm but not too low till the car/engine shaking and safe fuel. By engaging the gear the idling (rpm) get further affected and the jolt getting worse. The idling valve could be dirty. Simply give a service to the idling valve will solve the problem. Service means take it out and clean it and put it back. Try not to DIY. Get a mechanic to do it. You may not put it back properly. Sometimes it is better to get outside mechanic advice. They could explain better and more willing to explain and commit due to their experience in servicing teruk teruk cars. What the BB SC handling are mostly road worthy new almost problem free cars, except minor ones lah. Just like comparing a professional boxer master of the rings and rules but no match with a streets fighter who will use all available means parang included and run if they must. So, make sure they dont run away after taking down all your parts and dont know how to put back, hahahahaha. Then it could also be your clutch system. Less unlikely but how long have you not change the clutch? It could not be the type of engine oil especially so when it is new regardless if it is semi, fully sync or mineral. Do not overfull the engine with oil, we are advised. So suck it out asap.

Cheers
Stevie


Hi Stevie,

Thanks! I've DIY cleaned the idling valve before last time and it greatly improve the starting and idling. The 206 UK forum provide a very detail step by step instructions with pictures including things to watch out for. I've asked the SC to check and clean before, but they never did but told me they have. That's why I reverted to DIY to check, and surprise surprise, it was super duper dirty and clogged, whole thing is covered, much more worst than those I seen in the forums.

For my current case, I don't think it's the idling valve or RPM, because the idling RPM is still same as previous before I service, and it's not when cold start, cold start I know it's not smooth; But this is all the time, it feels like still cold start. With the air-cond off is ok, when the air-cond is on, it's like taking too much power. What's funny is, this happens only after the service. I was expecting the car to be better after service, but surprise is was the opposite, lol.

I do think the engine oil is overfilled because my engine stated 4.25 litres, but the mech fill 4.5 litres from the 5L bottle; He didn't even check the oil level at all, just pour only until 4.5L then ask me, "ada sikit lagi... kasi habis?". I was shocked and straight away say a BIG "NO".
How do I sucked out the engine oil? LoL smile_sleepy.gif




#34
stevie8

Posted 05 February 2010 - 04:50 PM

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QUOTE (Andy214 @ Feb 5 2010, 11:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Stevie,

Thanks! I've DIY cleaned the idling valve before last time and it greatly improve the starting and idling. The 206 UK forum provide a very detail step by step instructions with pictures including things to watch out for. I've asked the SC to check and clean before, but they never did but told me they have. That's why I reverted to DIY to check, and surprise surprise, it was super duper dirty and clogged, whole thing is covered, much more worst than those I seen in the forums.

For my current case, I don't think it's the idling valve or RPM, because the idling RPM is still same as previous before I service, and it's not when cold start, cold start I know it's not smooth; But this is all the time, it feels like still cold start. With the air-cond off is ok, when the air-cond is on, it's like taking too much power. What's funny is, this happens only after the service. I was expecting the car to be better after service, but surprise is was the opposite, lol.

I do think the engine oil is overfilled because my engine stated 4.25 litres, but the mech fill 4.5 litres from the 5L bottle; He didn't even check the oil level at all, just pour only until 4.5L then ask me, "ada sikit lagi... kasi habis?". I was shocked and straight away say a BIG "NO".
How do I sucked out the engine oil? LoL smile_sleepy.gif


Hi Andy,

I would like to start with the overfilled engine oil. When the manufacture marked the dipstick with min and max you better stay between that levels!. Never think a little more is ok or more is better. Already the word "MAX" mean MAX and have no other meaning. The other only meaning is TROBLE. You can go to any car workshop they have a big tank that collect old/used engine for disposal. The same tank can suck the engine oil from the dipstick hole. A tiny hose goes into the dipstick hole from the tank and the tank is connected to an air pump. As the air is pumps it suck the engine oil out into the tank and the tank can measure how much oil is being pumped out. This tank is also one of other way to change engine oil without taking out the drain nut.

When it is overfilled it can damage your engine. 1st, as the piston goes down (down stoke) it slams the oil and this create resistance and pressure. 2nd, your engine is flooded, all things inside the engine turn very fast foam is created. foam means air in the oil and a lot of aeration (good for the fish in aquarium, you are not keeping fish in the engine right?) and difficult for the pump to work, extra pressure is further created. Instead of oil lubricating now it is air and heat is building up. The next thing is oil is pushing up the piston from the underside and more job for the piston ring to clean the oil and due to pressure some oil will be force up the piston to the combustion chamber. Blue/white smoke out from exhaust you may not see unless you come out of your car during high rpm. Then after some months you check your dipstick you fond that the oil level has came down and you think the engine makan minyak and you start thinking lucky you your mechanic added extra oil otherwise your engine could be damage if it had gone below Min! Thank you Mr lazy Mechanic! We always think too little is harmful and too much is harmless in fact better. So we feed our children lot of food, eat and eat and eat especially when they are little baby. Our teenage friends are now mostly rounded cute cute ones. lol.

#35
Andy214

Posted 09 February 2010 - 10:32 AM

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QUOTE (stevie8 @ Feb 5 2010, 04:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi Andy,

I would like to start with the overfilled engine oil. When the manufacture marked the dipstick with min and max you better stay between that levels!. Never think a little more is ok or more is better. Already the word "MAX" mean MAX and have no other meaning. The other only meaning is TROBLE. You can go to any car workshop they have a big tank that collect old/used engine for disposal. The same tank can suck the engine oil from the dipstick hole. A tiny hose goes into the dipstick hole from the tank and the tank is connected to an air pump. As the air is pumps it suck the engine oil out into the tank and the tank can measure how much oil is being pumped out. This tank is also one of other way to change engine oil without taking out the drain nut.

When it is overfilled it can damage your engine. 1st, as the piston goes down (down stoke) it slams the oil and this create resistance and pressure. 2nd, your engine is flooded, all things inside the engine turn very fast foam is created. foam means air in the oil and a lot of aeration (good for the fish in aquarium, you are not keeping fish in the engine right?) and difficult for the pump to work, extra pressure is further created. Instead of oil lubricating now it is air and heat is building up. The next thing is oil is pushing up the piston from the underside and more job for the piston ring to clean the oil and due to pressure some oil will be force up the piston to the combustion chamber. Blue/white smoke out from exhaust you may not see unless you come out of your car during high rpm. Then after some months you check your dipstick you fond that the oil level has came down and you think the engine makan minyak and you start thinking lucky you your mechanic added extra oil otherwise your engine could be damage if it had gone below Min! Thank you Mr lazy Mechanic! We always think too little is harmful and too much is harmless in fact better. So we feed our children lot of food, eat and eat and eat especially when they are little baby. Our teenage friends are now mostly rounded cute cute ones. lol.


Hey Stevie,

Thanks a lot for your advice and tips! I will try to ask any friendly-mechanic to help me do it. Another thing is, for new oil, it's really really, I mean, really hard to see the actual level on the dipstick. Probably it's also due to the dipstick used by Peugeot? smile_tongue.gif




#36
stevie8

Posted 09 February 2010 - 11:34 AM

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QUOTE (Andy214 @ Feb 9 2010, 10:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hey Stevie,

Thanks a lot for your advice and tips! I will try to ask any friendly-mechanic to help me do it. Another thing is, for new oil, it's really really, I mean, really hard to see the actual level on the dipstick. Probably it's also due to the dipstick used by Peugeot? smile_tongue.gif


The dipstick is flimsy and twist and turn as you push in and at the same time collect some oil along the tube or tuner. The marking in between the levels is hard to see. What I do is turning the other way around (the flat side for other car, cant remember) and see the level and/or turn the dipstick a bit down size up so as the oil at the dipstick flow down and accumulate thick enough layer of oil for our eyes to see. For new oil it is really hard to see, you may have to use light reflection to really see the level if not print the dipstick oil on a tissue paper.

About the idling why not use V-Power for one full tank. It can really clean your intake valves and all valves it contacts with. Not sure if they are still selling. If not there is a tablet type sold in Tesco or a liquid fuel additive made of palm oil. I have tried the liquid palm oil based additive and it works and smooth the engine. It not only clean but also lubricate the parts including fuel pump and other parts of the fuel intake system. Best of all it is made in Malaysia. Palm oil is what we know best.

#37
muzni

Posted 07 September 2011 - 12:00 AM

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Something about the engine and the temperature. Usually my meter was around 90 degrees. Then I put in X1-R, and now it's around 80. To say the engine is smoother and the pickup is better is really subjective, right? ... but the temperature is really down musik19.gif
-sm-