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Maintenance Cost on Volvos
Started by
S40
, Apr 19 2005 11:19 AM, 27 replies to this topic
#21
Posted 21 April 2005 - 05:00 PM
This is a never ending topic.
As what people said, you pay peanuts, you get monkey.
All I can say, it's individual's preferences. For me personally, it's the
safety. My life and loves one is too precious. You can feel the difference
when you push 100kmh in Proton & Volvo. To be honest, I never feel safe
going above 140kmh in any proton.
Just my 2 cent opinion.
Ciao
As what people said, you pay peanuts, you get monkey.
All I can say, it's individual's preferences. For me personally, it's the
safety. My life and loves one is too precious. You can feel the difference
when you push 100kmh in Proton & Volvo. To be honest, I never feel safe
going above 140kmh in any proton.
Just my 2 cent opinion.
Ciao
#22
Posted 21 April 2005 - 06:31 PM
I agree with izallyza...its a never ending topic...but a god one at that!
LoL Out of interest I have just posted some UK figures that may be of
interest..different market I know but it shows where Volvo sit against
the competition!
LoL Out of interest I have just posted some UK figures that may be of
interest..different market I know but it shows where Volvo sit against
the competition!
#23
Posted 21 April 2005 - 09:14 PM
Volvo car is like that la.. My father just done the 200k km service. It
cost rm1200+. Changed timing belt n other small part. The worksmanship is
rm750!!
cost rm1200+. Changed timing belt n other small part. The worksmanship is
rm750!!
#24
Posted 22 April 2005 - 09:36 AM
V406198
"i think still can get lower price as Carasia price is not the
lower in the market"
Who does then offer the best part prices in the market?
And just to add to the ongoing discussion, from what I've gather from
folks in the car business is that in GENERAL FWD parts and labour is more
expensive than your 240/740/940. Access for repairs for FWD is more
difficult in general and you're more likely to need to drop the engine (or
remove the whole dashboard) for a repair compared to a RWD.
And for your 240/740/940 most of the parts are overdesigned and
overengineered. And you also have to bear in mind that the previous RWD
were all evolutions with things getting better with subsequent models. And
volvo has been making RWD since donkey years compared with their jump into
FWD.
With the 2 RWD in the family I'm averaging $200-300 per month repairs AND
maintenance per car. But then again I do most of the work. Car is only in
the workshop maybe once or twice a year. Volvo (RWD) can be cheap to
maintain in my humble opinion if you buy your own spares, have a mechanic
who knows volvo and you can trust to charge you reasonably.
I wish I could migrate to a V70 or a S series or a T5. But with what I'm
spending on the volvo's now I'm too cheap.
"i think still can get lower price as Carasia price is not the
lower in the market"
Who does then offer the best part prices in the market?
And just to add to the ongoing discussion, from what I've gather from
folks in the car business is that in GENERAL FWD parts and labour is more
expensive than your 240/740/940. Access for repairs for FWD is more
difficult in general and you're more likely to need to drop the engine (or
remove the whole dashboard) for a repair compared to a RWD.
And for your 240/740/940 most of the parts are overdesigned and
overengineered. And you also have to bear in mind that the previous RWD
were all evolutions with things getting better with subsequent models. And
volvo has been making RWD since donkey years compared with their jump into
FWD.
With the 2 RWD in the family I'm averaging $200-300 per month repairs AND
maintenance per car. But then again I do most of the work. Car is only in
the workshop maybe once or twice a year. Volvo (RWD) can be cheap to
maintain in my humble opinion if you buy your own spares, have a mechanic
who knows volvo and you can trust to charge you reasonably.
I wish I could migrate to a V70 or a S series or a T5. But with what I'm
spending on the volvo's now I'm too cheap.
#25
Posted 22 April 2005 - 02:03 PM
Good example of that perdana v6 vs 850. My buddy is driving the v6 and
I'm not sure what he did, his regular service/maint fees is more than my
96' 850.
When I bought it 2 yrs ago, I spent about 4-5K to fix it up really good.
And till today, I just go for regular lube job every 10k.
If just major lube ie timing + fan belt, old, bearings, filter, plug,
synthetic oil, etc. All for less than $1000. Normal service is like $250-
300.
Recently change original brake pad for front, cost me like $700. I
remember my kenari cost about $400 as well after 2 year as they have not
localized the pad yet. I expect the 850 to last at least 3 years.
Some parts may be expensive, so does for the other brand especially non-
routine wear and tear parts.
I'm not sure what he did, his regular service/maint fees is more than my
96' 850.
When I bought it 2 yrs ago, I spent about 4-5K to fix it up really good.
And till today, I just go for regular lube job every 10k.
If just major lube ie timing + fan belt, old, bearings, filter, plug,
synthetic oil, etc. All for less than $1000. Normal service is like $250-
300.
Recently change original brake pad for front, cost me like $700. I
remember my kenari cost about $400 as well after 2 year as they have not
localized the pad yet. I expect the 850 to last at least 3 years.
Some parts may be expensive, so does for the other brand especially non-
routine wear and tear parts.
#26
Posted 22 April 2005 - 04:36 PM
Sorry bro`s, just interrup this never ending thread ....
The most reliable car, when the electric and electronic systems has
high/great reliability, coz this impacts on un-scheduled replacement
parts (replacement cost) requiring electric energy, such as
- Electric Cooling Fan
- Oxygen Sensor
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Power Stage (ignition amplifier)
- Ignition Coils
- Knock Sensor
- Engine Cooling Sensor (for ECU)
- Air Mass Meter
- ABS Control Unit
- Velocity Speed Sensor
- Fuel Pump
- Engine Load Sensor
- RPM Sensor
- Fuel indicating sensor
- Engine Temperature Sensor (Temp. Gauge)
- Alternator
- Starter
- Air Cond Compressor
...etc...etc...
Consumers Union engineers said that the Japanese Lexus and German BMW
were found to be at opposite ends of the reliability spectrum not only in
electronics but across the board-engines, transmissions, suspensions,
exhaust, brakes and other areas. Based on surveys from approximately
675,000 respondents, they found that eight-year-old Lexus LS400s had
fewer problems per hundred vehicles (41 per 100) than six-month-old BMW 7
Series vehicles (42 per 100) – Consumer Reports USA.
Others vehicles with poor electrical and electronic reliability include
the Audi A6, BMW 7 Series, Chevrolet Blazer, Ford Windstar, Mercedes-Benz
E-Class, Volvo 850 and Volkswagen Golf. Consistently offering the best
electrical and electronic reliability were the Acura Integra, Honda CR-V,
Infiniti QX4 and Lexus LS400 – Consumer Report USA.
Electical and electronic systems reliability for european automaker
stall/decline during current two decades, north american increase a bit,
but asian automaker climb dramatically (especially japanese followed by
Korean), Proton took european philosophy, thus similar to them.
How many times within a month I have to settle the bloody lambda sensor.
Headlamp bad connection, clean AMM electrical connector, etc ... etc ...
all involve electrical connections, in the worst case will cause
premature failure (damage) on related parts ... yeah un-scheduled
replacement cost (plus hunting cost for cheaper replacement parts …
hehehe… better ask VOCM members). If I can settle by myself, it is ok.
But if not, how many time I have to go shops or dealer to diagnose the
error code then rectify the faulty parts and how much time I have to
waste my time (better TT with VOCM members hahaha), ….. heeemmmm some
like sort business interruption, loss business meeting due to bloody
lambda sensor ... hahahahhahahaha ... just joke but honest laaah..
Just for comparison :
1. Bought RX300 - year 1998, after 1 year, cost spent RM 420, RM320 for
routine engine oil change and RM 100 to flush the ATF.
2. Bought V940 Harmony - Year 1996, after 3 months, cost spent RM 5000
for parts, including change engine oil and flush ATF.
The most reliable car, when the electric and electronic systems has
high/great reliability, coz this impacts on un-scheduled replacement
parts (replacement cost) requiring electric energy, such as
- Electric Cooling Fan
- Oxygen Sensor
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Power Stage (ignition amplifier)
- Ignition Coils
- Knock Sensor
- Engine Cooling Sensor (for ECU)
- Air Mass Meter
- ABS Control Unit
- Velocity Speed Sensor
- Fuel Pump
- Engine Load Sensor
- RPM Sensor
- Fuel indicating sensor
- Engine Temperature Sensor (Temp. Gauge)
- Alternator
- Starter
- Air Cond Compressor
...etc...etc...
Consumers Union engineers said that the Japanese Lexus and German BMW
were found to be at opposite ends of the reliability spectrum not only in
electronics but across the board-engines, transmissions, suspensions,
exhaust, brakes and other areas. Based on surveys from approximately
675,000 respondents, they found that eight-year-old Lexus LS400s had
fewer problems per hundred vehicles (41 per 100) than six-month-old BMW 7
Series vehicles (42 per 100) – Consumer Reports USA.
Others vehicles with poor electrical and electronic reliability include
the Audi A6, BMW 7 Series, Chevrolet Blazer, Ford Windstar, Mercedes-Benz
E-Class, Volvo 850 and Volkswagen Golf. Consistently offering the best
electrical and electronic reliability were the Acura Integra, Honda CR-V,
Infiniti QX4 and Lexus LS400 – Consumer Report USA.
Electical and electronic systems reliability for european automaker
stall/decline during current two decades, north american increase a bit,
but asian automaker climb dramatically (especially japanese followed by
Korean), Proton took european philosophy, thus similar to them.
How many times within a month I have to settle the bloody lambda sensor.
Headlamp bad connection, clean AMM electrical connector, etc ... etc ...
all involve electrical connections, in the worst case will cause
premature failure (damage) on related parts ... yeah un-scheduled
replacement cost (plus hunting cost for cheaper replacement parts …
hehehe… better ask VOCM members). If I can settle by myself, it is ok.
But if not, how many time I have to go shops or dealer to diagnose the
error code then rectify the faulty parts and how much time I have to
waste my time (better TT with VOCM members hahaha), ….. heeemmmm some
like sort business interruption, loss business meeting due to bloody
lambda sensor ... hahahahhahahaha ... just joke but honest laaah..
Just for comparison :
1. Bought RX300 - year 1998, after 1 year, cost spent RM 420, RM320 for
routine engine oil change and RM 100 to flush the ATF.
2. Bought V940 Harmony - Year 1996, after 3 months, cost spent RM 5000
for parts, including change engine oil and flush ATF.
#27
Posted 22 April 2005 - 05:22 PM
These are my own evaluation based on older cars(new at that time lah..)
If want gaya to pick-up, then beemer lah...(not necessary loaded)
If want lots of money..., then merc lah...(sure loaded one)
If want safety, then Volvo lah...(loaded but no chan already, family man!)
Maintenance, mmm...doubt it would be any cheper than merc or volvo. If
compare to the 3 most common conti car in Malaysia in term of overall
cheaper maintenance:
1) Merc - 80/90s model
2) Volvo - HUH! 60's??? - early 90's
3) BMW - 80's
But of course individual hv swear by it that beemer is problem free and
maintenance hardly. Well, all boil down to individual and how they drive
and maintain n a tiny bit of luck in there...
If want gaya to pick-up, then beemer lah...(not necessary loaded)
If want lots of money..., then merc lah...(sure loaded one)
If want safety, then Volvo lah...(loaded but no chan already, family man!)
Maintenance, mmm...doubt it would be any cheper than merc or volvo. If
compare to the 3 most common conti car in Malaysia in term of overall
cheaper maintenance:
1) Merc - 80/90s model
2) Volvo - HUH! 60's??? - early 90's
3) BMW - 80's
But of course individual hv swear by it that beemer is problem free and
maintenance hardly. Well, all boil down to individual and how they drive
and maintain n a tiny bit of luck in there...
#28
Posted 22 April 2005 - 07:07 PM
Newkelisa
Definitely is not those Authorise Dealers as they had to pay royalty to
volvo and also their high overhead. if you look around especialy on
Klang Valley , you will found those small capital family run Auto parts
shops that are making small profit to survive from today man eating
man world , so just check around the pricing , you will find your
answer.
Definitely is not those Authorise Dealers as they had to pay royalty to
volvo and also their high overhead. if you look around especialy on
Klang Valley , you will found those small capital family run Auto parts
shops that are making small profit to survive from today man eating
man world , so just check around the pricing , you will find your
answer.