[spawny]

Patrick, you forgot that I did not want the 2 speed. I want the bearing
set and pinion gear lar. Anyway I have check that the 2 speed set comes
with pinion gears and bell for about RM200. So count me out for this.
Thanks.

[patricktoh]

Updated:.. spawny withdrawn.

patricktoh: RM240
Bag A - Chassis RM80
Bag A - Swing rack assembly RM20
Bag B - Front, rear arms sets RM25 (1 side)
Bag D - Chassis braces, shock towers RM20 (1 side)
Bag E - CVD assembly, hub carrier, pivot balls (2 sets) RM75
Bag J - Bumper, body post RM20

bargump: RM130
Bag C - Differential assembly, Diff case (2 sets) RM130

moat: RM230
Bag F - Threaded shock assembly (4 sets) RM130
Bag K - Tyres, wheels (4 sets) RM40
Bag I - Exhaust system header only RM40
Others - Manual, tools, decals RM20

magik: RM160
Bag B - Front, rear arms sets RM25 (1 side)
Bag D - Chassis braces, shock towers RM20 (1 side)
Bag E - CVD assembly, hub carrier, pivot balls (2 sets) RM75
Bag G - Fuel tank, tubing RM40

Available: RM340
Bag C - Drive shaft, braking system RM50
Bag C - 2 Speed transmission RM130
Bag H - Radio tray RM10
Bag I - Clutch system RM40
Bag I - Exhaust system - pipe only RM90
Bag I - Throttle, brake linkage RM20

[moat]

pokemon,
if u plan to upgrade everything later then ok lar to buy all hop up parts,
but if u jst want a good car then better buy a team kit and just upgrade
parts when they r broken, i heard of this guy who bought a used ntc3 for
1.5k and spend 6k to upgrade it with titanium stuff

patrick,
i'll take the linkage set too, btw just to confirm, we r talking abt team
kit with rear exhaust right? (i want the header for rear exhaust, not side)
so should we pay u up 1st or r u going to buy the kit 1st? where is your
location?

initiald,
nahhhhhhh not jumping ship, the shock set is cheap enough to be kept as
spares for any cars, the linkage set and header is for my hpi, the tyre is
for engine break in and play with drifting, the tools is because i have no
camber/droop/etc. tools at all and while the ntc3 one is just basic its
good enough for rm20. yup, i bought a hpi nitro rs4 3 type ss for playing
around anywhere, its a cheap car but very primitive, dun buy it if u can
only have 1 car

abede,
r u still here? what is the indicator on the front sway bar for? cant
figure it out lar

thanks

[InitialD]

moat,

I don't think you need RM 6K to upgrade the NTC3 to have titanium stuff.
Last I heard somebody did it for about a little more than the price of a
complete NTC3 team kit.

You bought a HPI?? How much? It is but a piece of crap. You skills would
probably end up worse driving it than if you didn't get it. Seriously, if
I were you and if I wanted a shaft driven car to bash around, I would have
gone with a NTC3. That's just me...

Anyway, why is it so important that you need to get a HPI that you cannot
do with the V1RR? I think it's just plain silly and a waste of money
getting the HPI.

[patricktoh]

moat,
I'm located in KL. Yes it is a rear exhaust headed. If Magik & bargump can
confirm their purchase then I will buy it 1st.

Lates update:..
patricktoh: RM240
Bag A - Chassis RM80
Bag A - Swing rack assembly RM20
Bag B - Front, rear arms sets RM25 (1 side)
Bag D - Chassis braces, shock towers RM20 (1 side)
Bag E - CVD assembly, hub carrier, pivot balls (2 sets) RM75
Bag J - Bumper, body post RM20

bargump: RM130
Bag C - Differential assembly, Diff case (2 sets) RM130

moat: RM250
Bag F - Threaded shock assembly (4 sets) RM130
Bag K - Tyres, wheels (4 sets) RM40
Bag I - Exhaust system header only RM40
Bag I - Throttle, brake linkage RM20
Others - Manual, tools, decals RM20

magik: RM160
Bag B - Front, rear arms sets RM25 (1 side)
Bag D - Chassis braces, shock towers RM20 (1 side)
Bag E - CVD assembly, hub carrier, pivot balls (2 sets) RM75
Bag G - Fuel tank, tubing RM40

Available: RM320
Bag C - Drive shaft, braking system RM50
Bag C - 2 Speed transmission RM130
Bag H - Radio tray RM10
Bag I - Clutch system RM40
Bag I - Exhaust system - pipe only RM90

[moat]

initiald,

it just what i heard, the 6k is the total upgrading cost of the car not
just titanium parts, 1 of the rccaraction mag issue have an article on
ntc3 upgrading and they spend 2.5k usd for it.

got the hpi for slightly less than 1k new,
yup its a terrible car but fits my requirement,
yup ntc3 kit car cost abt the same but no engine,body(i planned to buy the
saleen anyway),
the hpi come with gear diff so it will be almost no maintenance,
ntc3 rtr cost a bit more but the radio gear will be wasted and the engine
is not as good as the hpi imho.
but how would a bad car make me a bad driver?

as u already know, the v1rr is belt driven, the hpi is to be played on
parking lot/anywhere

btw, why r u so mad? kereta patah gandar ker? heheheheh

thanks for your opinion and yes, the hpi is not recommended(its really
primitive) but if i can do it all over again i'll still get the hpi but
maybe with the trans am body instead :)

patrick,
when did u normally go to subang speedway? hopefully can meet u there or
maybe shah alam stadium track for pick up/payment

thanks

[patricktoh]

moat,
This weekend I won't do any driving to prevent any accident to my dialed-
in NTC3. As you and me are not in hurry, I propose to postpone it until
magik & burgump response to me.

Normally I go to Speedway on Saturday/Sunday evening. Now I got phobia
playing there after bent the CVD and pivot balls.

[pokemon]

patrick..
i tot this sun ur gonna r-a-c-e ?

[InitialD]

Sorry, I'm not mad... Just that HPI is a company that overcharges and
produces lousy kits. That's it. The only thing that they are apprently
good in my eyes is bodyshells. But then again, I use Protoform
everytime... I wonder why.

Driving the HPI would make you a bad driver because the car offers no
opportunities to master your skills. It is just good for bashing. Better
spend your time driving the V1RR. Trust me, you need to get accustomed to
your car handling and learn how to set up your car.

I myself am driving a belt driven car and I don't see any need to require
a shaft driven car to play elsewhere. If the track is really that bad,
then you should not even play on it. Simple. Else, get a buggy or an
offroad car. A shaft driven car will also have problems with rocks and
pebbles.

About the Titanium NTC3, are you sure that RCCaraction spent USD 2.5K on
Titanium parts? The ones I saw were only as follows;

Aluminum brake block—item no. HCR-02524, USD 35.
Ti brake rotor—HCR-02534, USD 25.
Aluminum drive cups—HCR-02574, USD 21.
Ti chassis—HCR-02604, USD 145.
Ti upper deck—HCR-02514, USD 60.
Ti screw kit—HCR-02490, USD 80.
Quasar rims—HCR-02211, USD 49/pair.

That totals up to USD 439 if you include and use 2 pairs of their aluminum
rims. Nowhere near the USD 2.5K you mentioned.

Of course, that was slightly old. The latest parts on the website
(www.racinghardcore.com) features one or two additional titanium parts;

HCR-02490 ELECTRIC / NITRO TC3 - SCREW KIT (TITANIUM) (80PCS) USD 80.00
HCR-0250 NITRO TC3 - CHASSIS (TITANIUM) USD 135.00
or
HCR-0260 NITRO TC3 - CHASSIS PRO VERSION (TITANIUM) USD 145.00
HCR-0251 NITRO TC3 - UPPER DECK (TITANIUM) USD 60.00
HCR-0253 NITRO TC3 - BRAKE DISC (TITANIUM) USD 25.00
HCR-0256 NITRO TC3 - PILLOW BALL (SET OF 4)(TITANIUM) USD 39.00 (x2)
HCR-0261 NITRO TC3 - FRONT BUMPER BRACKET (TITANIUM) USD 38.00
HCR-0262 NITRO TC3 - DIFF. BRACE KIT F/L R/L (TITANIUM) USD 42.00
HCR-0264 NITRO TC3 - F/R SHOCK TOWER (TITANIUM) USD 59.00 (x2)

So if you were to install all the titanium parts only from Hardcore
Racing, it will set you back with a USD 586 bill assuming you take the pro
version of the chassis.

[bargump]

im also in no hurry for the gearboxes.. more of a project car for me la