There is a youtube video about this, the FICD isnt the problem, its the IACV (idle air control valve) according to the comment:
the ficd keeps the motor from stalling when its cold, the IACV (idle air control valve) raises the idle accordingly depending on motor load when idle ie: turning steering wheel, turning lights on, turning fans/ac on. that's what you should have replaces/cleaned/adjusted.
The fellow in the video changed the FICD and it had no effect on the problem.
In this additional video, it says the FICD and IACV are the same. But though its not about Wira, you get the idea about the situation and the need to clean it, adjust it and that the ECU can pick up the information. This may do nothing more than add to your general knowledge. I dont know. Im trying to learn this idle problem.
Now you can imagine why I like cars from the 1960's. None of this crap aboard the cars!
Alright then its possible the AC idle problem is nothing more than a dirty FICD--or its broken. In a youtube video there was a chap who used a Toyota part and it worked. But if those parts are OK, then its the ECU itself and if it cannot be re-programmed it may need to be replaced. I would hate that, its so expensive.
my satria 1.6 got crazy behaving IACV (mmc type of FICD) even the gear,motors,housing were in pretty good condition...
so i ditched all the gearing, lock the valve at fixed position, and add denso type FICD...problem solved....
so now instead of autochoke/warm-up procedure, i resort to manual choke/fast idling during cold start...just flick the ficd manual switch for morning warm-up....and drive away...then turn it of after getting good operating temp...
I went back to Proton and they said I dont have a FICD. They said the early series Wira had Mitsubishi components and FICD. Later, round 2000, Proton changed to VDO components and the FICD/IACV function was taken over by the ECU so there are no separate parts in the FI anymore. I'm only relaying what they said.
They are trying to locate another working ECU of the same Wira series to compare operations and results from the handheld. They believe the ECU has to be replaced. I have no knowledge about ECU so I cant say whats true or incorrect or what. I told them to COMPLETELY disassemble the throttle body and manifold parts and look for trouble, but first reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery, restart the car for 15 min, then off, then IGN on for 30 seconds so that the ECU remembers the new settings. If the same results as before, then ok take apart the manifold.
There are still sensors on the manifold that can be checked, and I can see a vacuum device mounted on the firewall which connects into the throttle body by hose--what is that for?
They said the "broken plastic screw in FICD" applies to the early Mitsu series Wira.