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Petrol Consumption for 2.0i ZX


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#71
tongks

Posted 17 April 2003 - 01:20 PM

tongks

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>>>Puginfo, my apologize for mis-reading on the batt conn, now I got the picture, I experienced the same on older car. This one can keep it clean if you want to, my normal practise on waterproofing outdoor RF cable/waveguide especially in marine enviroment, by using rubber splicing tape (3M Scotch 23 or equivalent) and water proofing butyl rubber (imported, like those for aircond use but more clean and efficient), then if necessary wrapped with good quality electrical tape (such as 3M Scotch 33), these are normal gadget in my personal toolbox.

I'll note the coil readings in my 'bible', thanks. The diff of secondary coil resistance may not means faulty since they are diff make, as long as they can produces same amplitude @ load. To my experience, it is hard to determine whether any HT coil is faulty (CRT and radar pulse transformer has similar one, some even oil-cool-coil) unless you measure it live (with scope), especially if its internal dielectric has loosen its isolation at high voltage. My usual first step to check any suspected HT coil is by measure its coil connectivity and primary-secondary isolation, then using the analogue ohmmeter switch to x1 scale and pulse the primary and see whether a test pen pick high voltage at secondary.

If your HT wire is origin, 21K ohm is really too bad, see if the centre core wire connection to clip is corroded, happened to mine.

ECU active fan sound easier to me, good idea.

2hand HT coil at RM80! seems a good deal.

Thanks.


>>>vonnig and rfbu, the electronic or the ignition driver/amplifier is in the ECU, HT coil is just a sealed twin-transformer....let me check my bible...yeah it is pin 1 & 19 @ MM8P ECU.


#72
vonnig

Posted 17 April 2003 - 02:06 PM

vonnig

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tong... on the contrary actually... as far as i know the ignition amplifier is placed outside
the ECU and on the right side (driver) of the engine bay.. on the wall of the suspension
well.... at least that's what they call it... the ignition amplifier... it's kind of a little flat
rectangular thingy bolted to a piece of metal which is then screwed in.... hehehe...
layman here... so if i'm wrong then correct me...

#73
tongks

Posted 17 April 2003 - 03:52 PM

tongks

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haha..vonnig, I got a sense that you will catch it (don't be so humble, y r over qualify as a layman), you're right:

For 1.8i & 2.0i 8v, the HT coil directly driven by ECU, or can say the ignition amplifier (or driver or whatever you want to name it) is built-in.
For 1.9i with or w/o distributor, drive signal from ECU is going thru a external ignition amplifier, in-series.
For 2.0i 16v, the individual sequential firing is driven by ECU via 2 external ignition amplifiers.

All the above model's info are extract from haynes except 2.0i, damn...I should have bought the more efficient 16v.

#74
vonnig

Posted 18 April 2003 - 10:27 AM

vonnig

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wahhh.. tong... now down to testing me lar... issit? well i'm simply a well informed layman
who knows his facts... this is because i had water go into the thingy a number of times
causing my car to run on two firing cylinders... and cost me RM80 to learn about it...

yeah i also know that the 16V has the dual ignition amps seen it before...the 16V is more
efficient but it runs on individual coils and therefore will create more problems if it fails... i
think some of the members here can attest to the cost of replacing those burnt out
coils...

#75
puginfo

Posted 22 April 2003 - 12:26 PM

puginfo

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>>> Hi Tong and Shaddai, some new things. I used a passive cooling idea of
channelling some vacuum into the ecu box and made some measurements after
a hot afternoon hr drive. The ecu heat sink surface seems to have around
50degC as compared to 80degC before. 30degC and you can hold (or even hug)
the ecu for over a minute!

I got a 1.5ins diam. subduct about 3 ins long, cut a hole in the under of
the plastic main intake duct just opposite of the ecu box bottom end and
just ran it from that hole into the underside of the plastic box where the
ecu cable entry is. You will also have to dismatle the cable holder on the
chasis left back off the ecu to have more cable run. The ecu box has some
smaller holes all over the surface facing the firewall. So air will now
enter from them and head downwards towards the vacuum tube at the end to
extract some heat away. It works!

cheers

#76
tongks

Posted 22 April 2003 - 01:01 PM

tongks

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Hi Puginfo, I'm surprise and glad to hear that you have so quickly and effectively transformed your idea into reality.

I can visualize how you did it, I'll try on mine one day after settle all minor problems.

Thanks.

#77
vonnig

Posted 22 April 2003 - 02:26 PM

vonnig

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whew!!! it took me a great deal of thinking to figure out what in the world puginfo was
trying to get at regarding the ECU... i have to deal with a greatly different mental picture
because mine is a ZX1.9i and is therefore VERY different from the layout of the 2.0i...
and
i've remembered that the ECU of the 1.9i is exposed and not concealed in a plastic
covering... so i get what you are saying now and have figured how to channel the air...
but for 1.9i since the ECU is situated on the wall of the suspension, it's not very hot and
there's air constantly going to that area as well... also it is rather near the air cond
expansion valve and the valve alwiz ices up... so plenty of cool air there... hehehe

tongks... since the HT coil does nothing much... i was wondering if the change of the
ignition amplifier would make a difference in performance... would it give a stronger spark
or more sure spark?

puginfo, you were saying that a change in the HT coil would provide better fuel economy
... how so?

#78
puginfo

Posted 22 April 2003 - 03:42 PM

puginfo

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>>>Well changing the HT coil pack did do alot of good in my ailing fuel
consumption but then again i'm working on a 94' XU10 engine. Scenario
would be slightly diff in an XU9 environment but generally all electrical
worn ignition parts MUST be maintained to the best as its the most easiest
item as compared to actual engine internals.Only then should there be a
drop in consumption, we can zoom into the mech area. In an F1 enviroment,
the Magnetti Marreli ign systems in the Ferrari would be ditched every 2
races! Very often then not, we tend to ignore the wear rate of an
electrical/electronic device because a worn item still looks just as good.
Only an oscilloscope or some digital measurement device can detect the
diff (as Tong says).

Maybe you can describe yr ignition system and i think the forum can come
up with some constructive ideas. The XU9 is it distributor based? external
ign amp,1 or 2 units? etc.

cheers

#79
tongks

Posted 22 April 2003 - 05:21 PM

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vonnig, you wrote:
"i was wondering if the change of the ignition amplifier would make a difference in performance... would it give a stronger spark or more sure spark? "

puginfo has given the answer.

IMHO, those shop with ignition analyser (don't know exactly how they name it) may be able to pin-point which part of the ignition system is giving problem. If they want to check whether it is at optimum performance, they may have to refer to the factory workshop manual that comes with ignition waveform for every ignition stage.

If you can get the manual with reference ignition waveform (or comparing the waveform from an optimum condition engine), provided you learn how to read and understand the waveform, then you can DIY the analyse with these common electronic tools:
1. Dual trace oscilloscope (with normal probe)
2. High Tension Probe up to 20KV or alternative - RF pick-up probe.

There is no need to modify your ignition for stronger/longer spark unless you have boosted your engine cc and hp together with diff spark plug.....try imagine it as nerve impulse.





#80
rfbu

Posted 23 April 2003 - 09:19 AM

rfbu

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hi tong,

when u accomplished ur record run(12.5km/litre) on the country road
from perak to terengganu, was ur car

1) going at 4th and 5th gear most of the time
2) going at 90km/h for most of the time
3) aircond on all the time
4) family of 5 to boot?

my manual says 6.x litres for 100km at 90km/h

thanks for sharing ur experiences
rfbu