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Must The Speaker RMS Rating Be Higher Than Amp RMS


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#21
Vegatron

Posted 16 July 2004 - 10:40 AM

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sharky, itu lah, underpowered and out of control....

try slapping on a nice beef rump steak powered amp on and see what the
difference.....

#22
calvinhpk

Posted 16 July 2004 - 10:41 AM

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tumpang thread also...
i have this CDT Audio HD52 comp. set....RMS 150W....does that means i
must find an amplifier that can produce the power near 150W RMS??
that would be very expensive then...

#23
tWoFish

Posted 16 July 2004 - 10:43 AM

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calvin,
put it this way, anything above 30W RMS can drive any modern car
speakers. we dun have to match the power ratings, more power means more
headroom hence ur speaker can perform better and response faster to
dynamic music. if u can afford it go for higher power amp..Big Smile

#24
Vegatron

Posted 16 July 2004 - 10:45 AM

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yeah those HD's needs lotsa power to tease out da mid bass....

of course it would work if you taruh less than 150W x 2 lar,... but to
make it perform at it's best.... more power please.

and dun forget a lot of amp manufacturers rate their amps based on
14.4V ,... so if they say 150W x 2 @ 4ohm @ 14.4V you got to measure how
many volts your car is giving your amp when everything is on, i.e. engine
on, aircon on, lights on, etc..... if it's only giving 12V ... then
you're not getting 150W x 2 ... even though it's rated 150W x 2.


#25
tWoFish

Posted 16 July 2004 - 10:46 AM

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loy,

it can be 2 things

1. your speaker cone is approaching cone breakup either due to physical
or design limitation

2. your amp starts to clip and distort.

from ur feedback this seem to happen when u turn up the volume right
hence sound like no 2. try using different music and check if this
problem happens.

#26
upesh

Posted 16 July 2004 - 11:00 AM

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So if i get a 70W to 75W RMS speaker rating which i swa in few 5" comps.
will be better than me getting a 90W RMS speaker ?

AMP Specs:

4x75W RMS at 4 OHMS. 4x150W Max at 4 OHMS
2x300W Max at 4 OHMS Bridged. 4x125W RMS at 2 OHMS
MOSFET Switches to Maintain Rated Power Over A Wide Range of Battery
Voltages
Stiffly Regulated PWM-Type Power Supplies
2 Ohm Stereo Stable Operation
Stereo, Bridge and Tri-Mode System Application Compatible
Variable Input Level Controls For Each Pair of Channels
Variable High and Low Pass Crossover Controls
Thermal and Speaker Short Protection Circuitry
Power and Protection LED Indicators
Bass Boost Circuitry
Nickel Plated Power, RCA and Speaker Connectors
High-Efficiency, Heavy Aluminum Heatsink
Bass Boost Remote Control
Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
THD: <0.04%. S/N Ratio: >90dB
Channel Separation: >65dB
Freq. Response: 10Hz~35KHz, 1dB
Fuse: 15A x 2
Dimensions: 9.82"(W) x 2.34"(H) x 11.46"

#27
Vegatron

Posted 16 July 2004 - 11:03 AM

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as I said not necessarily all speakers won't perform well when under
powered. I'm just saying in general feed it more power. ditto what 2fish
said. More control more head room.


#28
upesh

Posted 16 July 2004 - 11:21 AM

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Thanks Everybody for the information..I just saved myself $$$ from buying
something which i don't need to actually.Big Smile

#29
Vegatron

Posted 16 July 2004 - 11:29 AM

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upesh... what was it that you wanted to buy? a 150W power handling comp
is it?

Bridge up that 75W x 4 into 2 channels lor, there shd be more than enuff
power to drive.... should easily get 200W x 2 or more out of it.

then u need another amp to handle your sub lor.


#30
SharkyPG

Posted 16 July 2004 - 11:43 AM

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Thnks guys, I think twofish is right. If amp clipping, habis lah, new
upgrade. Waiting to get my LA S4.600 amp lah. But got cashflow
problems.... heh heh. Who doesn't??? *LOL*

Good to diagnose first before spend more $$$!